The Editor visits an exclusive Eastern Cape game reserve and discovers much Addo about Elephants | The Month July 2013
Keen-eyed, strawberry-blonde Eve eases our 6-seater game viewing Land Cruiser to halt on a narrow bridge and points, “There, just to the right of those partially submerged rocks, in the shadows.” The three of us, the only guests at the exclusive five-star private game reserve, River Bend Lodge, peer intently upstream. The lodge itself is situated within a 14000ha concession accessible to guests of the lodge only and managed by its neighbour, the Addo Elephant National Park, and home to the Big 5; so I’m almost as excited as my five-year-old beside me.
I scan the shallow river, mottled by the growing late afternoon shadows in search of a buffalo, one of the old ‘Dagga Boys’ – a term used in reference to aged bulls who no longer add value to their herd but who are too suborn to die. Before our departure Eve had informed us that River Bend guests are almost guaranteed to see lions, rhino, elephant and buffalo on the daily excursions within the concession. There’s a leopard or two
about too, she tells us, but it’s the shy Cape Leopard, so if we see one we’ll probably make it, along with pics of the beast, into the local paper.
“Do you see it?” Eve whispers, “In the branches above the rocks…” My son’s question follows as quickly on her words as the chill that descends, now that the sun has set about painting its canvas sky with every shade of orange imaginable. “A leopard?” he breathes, wide-eyed. Fat chance, I think, a leopard in the thin branches of young Sweet Thorn tree would be crazy, but more likely than a buffalo! And as I let out a chuckle a Burchell’s Coucal launches itself out of the tree and disappears in characteristic ungainly flight. It’s only the second time I’ve ever seen one of the elusive birds – or rather, almost seen it.
Eve fires the Cruiser into life and we’re off, wrapped up in branded River Bend blankets designed to keep the cold air at bay, even on the back of a moving open vehicle. They’re effective, but I ask for a second, just in case. There is little to compare to the icy cold of the Eastern Cape in winter. As she chats easily to the three of us, she points out zebra, warthog, Eland, Red Hartebees and a ‘Dagga Boy’, chomping stoically in a bend of the same river we’d stopped at earlier, but almost half an hour away.
The 14000ha concession was previously home to sheep and dairy cattle and large tracks of the natural veld were cleared in favour of pasture. In some parts the pasture has been returned to nature through the planting of a number of endemic species, but large tracts of open wild grassland still remain. Surveying part of the property from one of the many vantage points Eve takes us to, I’m struck by how African it appears; almost Serengeti-esque. Foreigners must love this, I suggest, and Eve concurs. Almost 80% of their clientele is made up of visitors from Europe and the US.
As she navigates a particularly steep section of road, Eve leans back to suggest I ready my camera, we’re about to see something rather special, she smiles, and then adds “I hope!” Turns out the reserve’s three lions were seen at a kill the previous day and were spotted heading towards and open field they often frequent to loll about. Fitting a telephoto lens I’m geared for the process of scanning the distance in search of the elusive cats. Imagine my surprise and the squeals of absolute delight, from more than just the five-year-old, when two young males literally appear in front of us, catching the last of the afternoon sun, undeterred by our presence and no more than ten metres from the car.
The lions are large and imposing, even from ten meters away, and I’m drawn towards them with much of the same sensation one has when close to the edge of a precipice. “Jump down,” something calls deep within me and I toy briefly with the idea of snuggling up to one of the docile looking beasts before sense prevails and I properly note the size of their massive paws. They’re still juveniles, Eve informs us, and in a year or two should reach maturity. I shudder at the thought and pull the five-year-old a little closer, as the shutter of my camera works overtime. The wife gives me a look that says she’s noted my priorities.
As we head back to the lodge were confirm times for the morning game drive, focussed on seeing some of River Bend’s 150-odd elephants, and Eve suggests that the warthog venison dinner option is sure to impress. I’m a little torn as a family of seven of the aerial-tailed critters cross the road ahead of us as though on cue, and say as much. Eve laughs and nods, “That’s why we don’t give any of them names.”
The lodge itself is graded five-star and as such features seven luxury double suites and private patios, air-con, king-size beds with percale linen, satellite TV and fully-stocked mini bar etc. There is also a fabulous communal library, spacious entertainment room and inviting lounge (where you’ll enjoy the resident chef’s afternoon tea), all with views of the surrounding reserve. There are suites with inter-leading doors for families, a fabulous honeymoon suite and the rather special ‘exclusive-use’ Long Hope Villa about one kilometre from the main lodge with a private chef and guide and perfect for those looking for a longer stay.
As a five-star establishment all the facilities measure up, as you’d expect, and I was particularly impressed with the friendly and attentive service of the small resident team of staff who anticipated many of our requests and balked at none of the more unusual ones that seem to go hand in hand with five-year-olds. Even a late night call to reception for some help on operating the Nespresso machine was greeted with a friendly ‘Hello’ and the kind of efficiency the R5000 daily-rate commands.
Special mention must be made of the food. The small menu changes daily and as the chef is always close at hand deviations from it are easily accommodated. Breakfast overlooking a nearby watering hole is a must, as is a request for a chocolate milkshake – which isn’t on the menu. Canadian-style French Toast and Eggs Benedict, with the best Hollandaise sauce ever, got even the picky five-year-old to sit still and at some point elicited ‘four thumbs up’, with two of those ‘thumbs’ looking a lot like big toes. Thank goodness we had the lodge to ourselves for that demonstration! We enjoyed three fish and two venison dishes and all were exceptional (warthog, by the way, is a lot like pork; which I guess makes sense…). Dessert in front of a roaring fire is bound to be a winner on a cold evening and when it comes without the need to rush off somewhere, is best enjoyed with another bottle of La Motte Shiraz or something stronger from the bar, to aid digestion, of course.
Emerging from the cocoon that is our massive bed, ready for an early-morning trek in search of elephants, I discover that a little animal has crept in between the warm down layers and not keen to be moved. “Perhaps we should ask if we can take the duvet on the drive with us,” suggests the wife, looking at the almost angelic face of the sleeping five-year-old. “Or we could just leave him here,” I offer, as I reach the phone and prepare to dial ‘9’ to ask for a babysitter. At some point I say the word ‘elephants’ and two five-year-old eyes open wide to set off a mouth that doesn’t stop until we’re almost 20 minutes into the morning drive.
As it turns out, the River Bend elephants have found a section of the concession that is inaccessible in the Land Cruiser and Eve heads out of the park and across the road to Addo, where we soon find a number of the gentle giants happy to be studied and photographed. We learn that the Addo elephants are quite different from their Kruger Park cousins, and as they don’t regard people or vehicles as a threat, appear almost tame and come across as surprisingly tolerant of human hangers-on.
There’s dust, stomping, chomping, hugging, snorting, blinking and trumpeting as we observe a number of herds going about their daily grind. ‘Elephants are stoic’ I write in my notebook, next to a reminder that the value of a family can never be underestimated. As the sun creeps higher above the horizon, a flat camera battery serves as a signal for breakfast and one last defiant blast of energy affords me a blurry shot of a grumpy Rhino back in the concession. The running commentary starts up again, but this time the five-year-old has two excited adults to compete with. What an experience!
River Bend Lodge is a special place, made even more so by its exclusivity and the unparalleled accessibility of the unthreatened wildlife of Addo. Whether you’ve seen it all before, or if you’re after a once-in-a-lifetime African experience, but without the need to ‘rough it’, this 14000ha home to the Big 5 is sure to make a lasting impression on all who visit it.
Fast Facts:
Rates: R5000 per person, per night in season.
Location: An hour’s drive from Port Elizabeth.
You’re likely to see: The Big 5, any number of the 3oo resident bird species, giraffes next door, smiling faces.
Great Extras: Babysitting, a resident photographer prepared to share his time and knowledge, some very good wine.
Visit River Bend Lodge online for more info and pictures at: www.RiverBendLodge.co.za
The Editor and his family were accommodated courtesy of the lodge, other expenses were for his own account.