The weather was overcast, drizzling and cold when we got to the Matyholweni Gate in the Colchester Section of the Addo Elephant National Park. We were informed that no caravans, buses or motorbikes are allowed to travel between this camp and the Main Camp due to steep inclines. Luckily Ufudu has 4×4 capabilities so we had no problem. The Matyholweni Camp has no camping facility but Main Camp still had 2 tent sites available. Tent sites are smaller than caravan sites so we were advised to check it out before deciding to check in.
We took a leisurely drive to Main Camp and stopped along the way to have lunch, one of the advantages of being in Ufudu! We spotted 3 elephant bulls along the way, but that was it as far as elephants go! There were zebra, red hartebeest and kudu as well but they were mostly lying down, apparently due to the cold weather.
Bull elephant
Of course a visit to Addo is not complete without seeing and learning about the Addo Flightless Dung Beetle. Their conservation status is listed as ‘vulnerable’ due to the fact that they have only one nesting sequence per year during which a single offspring is produced. Being flightless they also face many environmental threats, one of them being run over by cars!
Addo Flightless Dung Beetle in the road
We were able to see a wind turbine near the Koega Harbour in the distance, through the haze.
Wind turbine
We were alerted to the presence of lions at the Hapoor Dam so we went to have a look before we got to Main Camp. There were two males sleeping. Very boring, really, and people just sit there for hours watching them do nothing…
Unperturbed by all the attention
Dreaming while soaking up the warmth of the sun
They were still there the next afternoon but at least now they were showing signs of life.
What big teeth you have!
The birding was more rewarding.
Pale Chanting Goshawk
Juvenile Pale Chanting Goshawk. We initially got excited, thinking it was a new species for our list…
Speckled Mousebird
We eventually got to Main Camp and chose the largest of the available tent sites. We had to leave the trailer in the parking lot but at least Ufudu and Suzi fitted snugly. It was not too bad and we were very happy to be able to stay for two nights.
Squeezed into tent site (T9)
The night was really cold but we were brave and got out rather early the next day. It was worth it. The photos are not too great due to low light/overcast conditions but hey, we had some great sightings.
Denham’s Bustard
A very cold and miserable Southern Black Korhaan
Bokmakierie
Red-necked Spurfowl
Black-backed Jackal
There were numerous Warthog and all were in very good condition but very light in colour, unlike the normal grey that we are used to. We suspect it is because of the mud they have been rolling in. Warthog were apparently only re-introduced to the Park during the 1990’s.
Warthog
Main Camp itself is really great and we spent quite some time working our way through all the facilities. They cater for the whole family with facilities such as a bird hide, an interpretive centre, a play area for little people, a wheelchair friendly discovery trail, Cattle Baron restaurant, etc.
Ulwazi Interpretive Centre with Hapoor’s head mounted on the wall
‘Elephant’ gym
Milkweed Bug on Ivy-leaved Geranium seen on the discovery trail
We also saw two bachelor buffalo and a small herd of elephant. By all accounts we were lucky because everyone we chatted to said they had no good sightings!
After 2 nights we moved on to the Kabouga Section of the Park. We checked in at the Mvubu rustic camp for 2 nights. It was stunning. Just us, no electricity and a pipe shower (again). I had a friend years ago that had the theory: if you encounter something for the first time, you will encounter it again within 48 hours. She was right again!
The Mvubu camp is situated on the banks of the Sundays River which was very murky. Roger thinks it is because the Sundays River is supplemented by water pumped from the Orange River.
Lookout over the Sundays River at Mvubu campsite
From Mvubu camp we went on a 4×4 trail up the Zuurberg Mountain. We did the full trail a number of years ago, all the way to the Darlington Dam. This time we only went to the top of the pass and then back down to our camp. It took us the best part of 7 hours to complete!
Very pregnant Black-backed Jackal encountered on the 4×4 trail
Suzi negotiating a rocky river bed
Ancient cycads encountered high up on the trail
Example of folds in the mountain
Lunch on the run
View from the top of the Zuurberg
The evenings at Mvubu camp were glorious. Starry skies, a Scops Owl calling incessantly, wood fire burning….
When we left the park after our last night we saw an excellent example of a dyke, which is a vertical intrusion of magma. The surrounding softer structures are all weathered away, leaving only the dyke standing.
Dyke outside park gate. Looks like a built wall!
Next stop Port Elizabeth where Kevin will be joining us for a few days.